RECIPE AND TECHNOLOGY OF RKATSITELI CREAM

Abstract

The demand for cosmetics containing components of natural origin has grown significantly in recent years. Antioxidant-containing cosmetics are currently receiving special attention as they protect skin cells from oxidative stress, the harmful effects of ultraviolet (UV) rays, and consequently from early aging. One of the most potential sources of natural antioxidants is grape and its processing byproducts.

Wine, which is rich in polyphenols, vitamins, minerals, and other biologically active substances, is the main product of the processing of grapes. Grape seed is also a major waste product of industrial grape processing, accounting for 7-20% of the weight of processed grapes.

During the last decade, there has been a growing interest in grape seeds due to they contain biologically active compounds such as fatty acids and polyphenols. Their potential benefits range from anticoagulant activity, to antioxidant, hypoglycemic, and even anticancer activity. They slow down the skin aging process. Due to their consistency, plasticity and thixotropic properties, creams are preferred among cosmetic products. Creams are well tolerated by the skin.

The purpose of the study was to determine the formulation of the cream containing Rkatsiteli wine and seed oil and develop the technology based on biopharmaceutical research. On the basis of the conducted biopharmaceutical studies, the optimal recipe of Rkatsiteli cream has been determined, the preparation technology and a technological scheme has been developed.

Microscopic studies have established that Rkatsiteli cream is polydisperse and is mainly represented by 3-5 µm oily phase particles. The dynamics of release of active substances are studied in an in vitro test using Franz diffusion cells. It is estimated that the release of flavonoids from Rkatsiteli cream reaches 50% within 4 hours. By studying the rheological characteristics of Rkatsiteli cream, it is determined that the cream has optimal consumer properties.

In terms of quality parameters: uniformity, pH of aqueous extract, colloidal and thermostability, tube release and distribution, the supplied Rkatsiteli cream complies the requirements of the pharmacopoeia. The stability of Rkatsiteli cream under different storage conditions has been studied. It is established that the supplied cream maintains optimal quality parameters for the entire three-month observation period.